At the table · 6 minute read
What to eat in Shanghai on a first visit
A practical first Shanghai food day: breakfast, dumplings, noodles and a shared dinner, with Chinese names and advice on what to skip.
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Read the noteFood · Tea · Architecture · Design
Field notes from Shanghai
A little context changes what you notice. Start with a dish, a building or a question, and take the idea with you into the city.
Latest field notes
70 notes
Making · Tailoring choices · 6 minute read
Shanghai tailoring: Maoming Road or the South Bund Fabric Market?
Compare Shanghai tailoring on Maoming Road and at the South Bund Fabric Market through cloth, cutting, fittings, timing and the questions that matter.
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On the street · 7 minute read
A former French Concession walk: Wukang Road to Anfu Road
A suggested Shanghai walk from Wukang Building toward Anfu Road, with villas, apartment blocks, contemporary shops and clear limits on residential access.
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Label study · Songmont · 5 minute read
Songmont Luna or Song: choose an opening, not a photograph
Compare Songmont Luna and Medium Song bags by shape, access, carrying modes and packing, using official models without pretending to a wear test.
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At the table · 5 minute read
Crab-roe noodles: ask what is in the golden sauce
How to read a Shanghai crab-noodle menu, distinguish crab roe from mixed crab toppings, and judge a bowl beyond its golden photograph.
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On the street · 6 minute read
Yu Garden, Yuyuan Bazaar and City God Temple are three different visits
Understand Shanghai’s Yu Garden, its surrounding bazaar and the active City God Temple: three neighboring places with different purposes, entrances and visitor rules.
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Label profile · Clothing · 5 minute read
ICICLE: the quiet clothes have to earn their quietness
A closer look at Shanghai-founded ICICLE through fabric, proportion, layering and questions to ask when shopping its restrained ready-to-wear.
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At the table · 7 minute read
Ordering a Shanghai dinner for two: make every dish earn its place
A detailed way to order a shared Shanghai dinner for two: portions, rich dishes, vegetables, rice, soup, seasonal additions and a clear budget conversation.
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On the street · 7 minute read
Xintiandi, Tianzifang or Zhangyuan? Choose the kind of afternoon
Compare three Shanghai heritage shopping districts by lane layout, redevelopment, contemporary retail and the kind of visit each suits.
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Label profile · Clothing · 5 minute read
UMA WANG: look at the cloth before naming the mood
Meet designer UMA WANG through her training, collection archive and a practical approach to texture, volume and trying expressive clothes.
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Read the noteAt the table · 5 minute read
Ordering Shanghai food without Chinese: make one thing clear at a time
A practical Shanghai restaurant ordering method: Chinese dish names, portions, sauces, dietary questions and confirming the bill before the food arrives.
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On the street · 5 minute read
The Bund or the North Bund? Choose your angle
Compare the Bund and North Bund for historic facades, skyline views and a Shanghai riverfront walk, with practical guidance on choosing one or combining them.
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Label profile · Fragrance · 5 minute read
DOCUMENTS 闻献: let the fragrance outlast the presentation
A practical profile of Shanghai fragrance label DOCUMENTS 闻献, with an opinionated approach to sampling, format, dry-down and buying a perfume.
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Read the noteAt the table · 5 minute read
Hongshaorou: the sauce should not do all the work
How to judge Shanghai red-braised pork belly through its skin, fat, lean meat and sauce, and build a better shared dinner around it.
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On the street · 5 minute read
Shanghai in the rain: put one building at the center
A practical rainy-day Shanghai architecture plan using the Shanghai History Museum or Rockbund Art Museum, with current visitor distinctions and short outdoor links.
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Cloth study · Silk · 5 minute read
Buying silk in Shanghai: start with the label, not the shine
A practical Shanghai silk-shopping guide to composition labels, satin, weight, lining, care and questions to ask before buying fabric or a scarf.
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At the table · 4 minute read
Savory soy milk: order a bowl, expect a breakfast dish
What goes into Shanghai xian doujiang, why savory soy milk is eaten with a spoon, and how to order it alongside a small breakfast.
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On the street · 5 minute read
Columbia Circle: do not skip the buildings that look less historic
Read Shanghai’s Columbia Circle through country-club buildings, former industrial space and contemporary connections, with clear distinctions between exterior and interior access.
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Cloth study · Knitwear · 6 minute read
Wool or cashmere? Choose the garment before the prestige
Compare wool and cashmere through fiber, knit structure, pilling, warmth, labels and care when shopping for clothing in Shanghai.
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At the table · 4 minute read
Cifantuan: a rice roll is a complete breakfast
A closer guide to Shanghai cifantuan: the rice, fried-dough center, sweet and savory choices, and why a small order is a useful first breakfast.
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On the street · 5 minute read
1933 Old Millfun: read the concrete before the photograph
A closer reading of Shanghai’s 1933 Old Millfun: former slaughterhouse, reinforced concrete, circulation, bridges and the limits of visiting an active commercial venue.
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Design & everyday life · 5 minute read
Useful souvenirs: bring home a decision, not just a logo
Choose Chinese-design souvenirs in Shanghai through useful objects, bags, scent and textiles, with practical checks for gifting and packing.
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At the table · 4 minute read
Guotie or shengjian? Decide by the wrapper
The practical difference between Shanghai guotie potstickers and shengjian buns: wrapper, shape, crisp base, broth and ordering a fair comparison.
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On the street · 5 minute read
Palmer & Turner: two different ways to look powerful on the Bund
Compare Palmer & Turner’s 1923 HSBC building and 1929 Sassoon House on Shanghai’s Bund: classical authority, Art Deco verticality and the work of an architectural firm.
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Making · Tailoring process · 5 minute read
Bespoke, made-to-measure or alterations: buy the right amount of making
Choose between bespoke tailoring, made-to-measure, ready-to-wear and alterations in Shanghai by asking about patterns, fit, construction and time.
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At the table · 4 minute read
Pork chop and rice cakes: a plate built on contrast
How to order Shanghai paigu niangao, distinguish it from a breaded pork cutlet, and understand the rice cakes and local Worcestershire-style sauce.
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On the street · 5 minute read
Fuxing Park and Sinan Road: two ways to spend public time
A suggested walk around Fuxing Park, Sinan Road and Sinan Mansions, comparing a public garden with streets, villas and contemporary commercial uses.
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Clothing · Fit · 5 minute read
Chinese clothing sizes: read the measurements, then try the garment
Understand Chinese clothing size labels, body measurements, garment measurements and practical fitting checks when shopping in Shanghai.
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At the table · 4 minute read
Osmanthus cakes: ask which kind of cake
How to choose osmanthus cakes and sweets in Shanghai by texture, fragrance and portion, without assuming every guihua gao is the same dessert.
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On the street · 5 minute read
Only half a day in Shanghai? Choose a question before a route
Plan a half-day Shanghai visit around the Bund, Wukang–Anfu or Yu Garden. Choose one area, allow realistic buffers and match the outing to your interests.
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Read the noteAt the table · 2 minute read
Benbang cooking: look beyond “Shanghai food is sweet”
An introduction to benbang Shanghai food through braising, fresh and preserved ingredients, and a better-balanced shared meal.
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At the table · 2 minute read
A small bowl of noodles, a good test of attention
How to approach congyou banmian: scallion oil, soy sauce, noodle texture and questions to ask before assuming the bowl is vegetarian.
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A place to pause · 2 minute read
Choosing a Shanghai tea house: the room, the tea and the pace
Choose a Shanghai tea house for the experience you want: historic surroundings, a focused tasting or an unhurried pause. Questions about tea and charges.
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Read the noteOn the street · 2 minute read
Shikumen and lilong: read the lane before the doorway
Understand the difference between a shikumen house and its lilong setting, and look carefully at Shanghai's lanes, thresholds and changing uses.
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Architects of Shanghai · 2 minute read
Three Hudec buildings, three different questions
Compare three Shanghai landmarks associated with László Hudec: Wukang Building, Park Hotel and Grand Cinema. A guide to looking beyond one signature style.
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Architects of Shanghai · 2 minute read
Fan Wenzhao and the city that went to the pictures
Read the Majestic Theatre through Fan Wenzhao's architecture: public entertainment, modern design and the collaborators behind a Shanghai landmark.
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Architects of Shanghai · 2 minute read
Dong Dayou: another center for Shanghai
Meet Dong Dayou through the Greater Shanghai Plan and Jiangwan's civic buildings: a different starting point for Shanghai architectural history.
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Ways of looking · 2 minute read
Is it Art Deco? Start with the whole building
A careful way to recognize Art Deco in Shanghai: compare overall form, repeated geometry and materials, while keeping other architectural traditions distinct.
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Read the noteDesign & everyday life · 2 minute read
Three ways into Chinese fashion: silhouette, fabric, everyday life
A starting point for Chinese fashion in Shanghai: compare SHUSHU/TONG, UMA WANG and ICICLE through silhouette, fabric and the clothes you want to live in.
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Design & everyday life · 2 minute read
Beyond the runway: how to approach Shanghai's independent labels
Understand LABELHOOD's role in Shanghai's fashion ecosystem, then turn runway curiosity into a focused, realistic visit to discover Chinese designers.
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Read the noteDesign & everyday life · 2 minute read
Before you commission a qipao, have this conversation
A useful first conversation with a Shanghai qipao atelier: occasion, cut, fabric, fittings, total price and a completion date that fits your departure.
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By the river · 2 minute read
Suzhou Creek: use the water to read the city
A way to explore Shanghai's Suzhou Creek through bridges, buildings and changing uses, with a compact route in mind rather than an endless checklist.
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Read the noteMaking · A first fitting · 2 minute read
A first fitting is a conversation with an unfinished garment
What a baste fitting reveals, why movement matters, and what to settle before commissioning tailored clothing in Shanghai.
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Read the noteCloth study · Outerwear · 3 minute read
Read a winter coat from the inside out
A practical way to compare a coat’s cloth, lining, fit and care requirements during a Shanghai shopping visit.
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Making · Repair · 3 minute read
Repair as design: look closely at a darn
How V&A Dundee’s documented darning method changes the way we look at a worn garment and at clothing worth keeping.
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Scent study · To Summer · 2 minute read
Tea in fragrance: To Summer’s VOID and a different kind of memory
A close reading of To Summer co-founder Shen Li’s published SPUR interview, with VOID/空境研茶 as a specific example.
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Label study · SHUSHU/TONG · 3 minute read
From collection to shop rail: reading SHUSHU/TONG
How to use SHUSHU/TONG’s official collection archive to look more carefully at a garment in a Shanghai shop.
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Object study · Tea ware · 3 minute read
One useful object: SHANG XIA’s bamboo-woven porcelain
A closer look at the Bridge tea collection: porcelain, hand-split bamboo and the difference between Shanghai design culture and manufacturing origin.
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Dress study · Qipao · 3 minute read
An everyday qipao has to move with its wearer
Shanghai qipao history offers a useful counterpoint to occasion dressing. How to discuss fit, movement and practical use with a maker.
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City life · Language · 3 minute read
Shanghai between languages: what an address has to explain
A January 2026 bilingual-signage case in Jing’an shows why translating a Shanghai address involves layout and local use as well as words.
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A place to pause · 3 minute read
A tea afternoon: give one tea enough time
A practical way to spend a Shanghai tea-house afternoon: choose a clear service, follow one tea through several pours, and separate tasting from buying leaves.
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At the table · 3 minute read
Small wontons: the pleasure is in the wrapper
Meet Shanghai's xiao huntun: small pork wontons, delicate wrappers and broth. How to distinguish the bowl from soup dumplings and order with useful Chinese names.
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At the table · 3 minute read
Yanduxian: fresh shoots, preserved pork, one pot
Shanghai's spring soup of bamboo shoots, fresh pork and preserved pork offers a different introduction to local cooking. What to notice and how to order for a shared table.
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At the table · 3 minute read
Cold noodles for a warm Shanghai day
Shanghai lengmian brings noodles, peanut sauce and a choice of toppings to the warm-weather table. A useful introduction to fan-cooled noodles and ordering the bowl.
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On the street · 3 minute read
Hudec's Green House: modern life on an awkward plot
Read Hudec's Green House at 333 Tongren Road through its Chinese client, curved balconies and fitted plan. Historical context for an exterior-focused architecture walk.
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On the street · 3 minute read
Two names over one gateway: reading Bugao Li
The Chinese and French names at Bugao Li offer a compact way to read Shanghai's lane architecture, naming and thresholds from the public street.
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On the street · 3 minute read
The canopy is part of the street
Read Shanghai's plane-tree canopy alongside pavements, lane entrances and pocket parks. A closer look at Yongjia Road and the street life beneath its branches.
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On the street · 3 minute read
At Tongyili, what does preservation keep?
Tongyili offers a concrete way to distinguish retained urban layout, reconstructed buildings and changed uses. Reading a Shanghai lane redevelopment beyond its old-looking facade.
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In season · October 2026 · 3 minute read
Hairy-crab season: a Shanghai autumn worth making time for
Dazha xie, or hairy crab, in Shanghai's autumn: October 2026 harvest reporting, whole crab versus picked-meat dishes, and useful ordering questions.
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Label profile · Footwear · 2 minute read
PANE: a low-profile shoe with a larger everyday ambition
Meet PANE through its design approach, a 2026 founder interview and its Shanghai store directory. What to look for when trying its everyday footwear.
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Read the noteLabel profile · Bags · 2 minute read
Songmont: begin with what a bag has to do
Songmont's founder story begins with a practical bag problem. Explore its user-centered design background and how to compare bags during a Shanghai visit.
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Label profile · Fragrance · 2 minute read
To Summer 观夏: scent as a way into a place
Meet To Summer through co-founder Shen Li's published interview: Chinese tea, scent and cultural memory, with a practical approach to a fragrance visit.
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Label profile · Clothing · 2 minute read
COMMON SCENTS: look at the shape of an everyday outfit
COMMON SCENTS is a clothing label, despite the name. Explore its contemporary menswear through proportion, fabric and a useful in-store comparison.
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Atelier profile · South Maoming Road · 2 minute read
Maya Tailor: a making tradition at 128 South Maoming Road
Meet Maya Tailor on South Maoming Road and discover Wang Xiurong's approach to making, fitting and caring for a garment over time.
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Atelier profile · South Maoming Road · 2 minute read
China Chapter 庄容: a closer look at the qipao
Explore China Chapter on South Maoming Road through founder Zhang Yahua's approach to embroidery, painting and contemporary qipao commissions.
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Read the noteAt the table · 2 minute read
Four classics to start a Shanghai morning
Dabing, youtiao, cifantuan and doujiang: a short guide to Shanghai's familiar breakfast quartet, with useful ordering notes.
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At the table · 2 minute read
Xiaolongbao or shengjian? Make room for both.
A practical introduction to Shanghai's steamed soup dumplings and pan-fried buns: texture, broth and how to enjoy the first bite.
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By the river · 2 minute read
Look at the Bund in three directions
Look across the Huangpu, along the Bund's historic facades and back into its streets. Three ways to notice more on Shanghai's waterfront.
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Read the noteOn the street · 2 minute read
Wukang Road, beyond the photograph
Look beyond the Wukang Building photograph: notice thresholds, balconies, materials and Shanghai's plane-tree canopy on a neighborhood walk.
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Design & everyday life · 3 minute read
Shopping Shanghai: look past the label
A thoughtful way to shop Shanghai: Chinese designers, fabrics, perfume, independent stores and useful questions about prices and discounts.
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Read the noteShanghai with Edward Wu
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